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 Recommend me an armorers wrench.
RaisedByWolves  [Member]
8/15/2011 4:07:49 AM EST


I just bought a DD M4-XV upper and want to change out the handguard for a DD Omega X 12.0 fsp.


I know Ill need the appropriate DD nut wrench style, but Id also like something that will cover most AR parts in a single package.

Quality is a concern here, but price also as Im not going into business here.


What are your recommendations.

Thanks!

.
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new-arguy  [Site Staff]
8/15/2011 4:56:34 AM EST
I use armorers wrenches a dozen times or more in a week. In truth, the only thing I use an armorers wrench for is barrel nuts and some muzzle devices. If you aren't going to be changing a lot of barrels, a cheap wrench will be fine. Although I have broken no less then 5 DPMS wrenches, I would guess for your purposes, it will be fine. The part that always breaks is the pegs for many FF rails. You won't even need that part for installing the DD rail.

If you are looking for a good set of tools for your AR, most everything you will want (not everything though) are standard tools.
Jonnysixguns  [Team Member]
8/15/2011 5:13:06 AM EST
Originally Posted By new-arguy:
I use armorers wrenches a dozen times or more in a week. In truth, the only thing I use an armorers wrench for is barrel nuts and some muzzle devices. If you aren't going to be changing a lot of barrels, a cheap wrench will be fine. Although I have broken no less then 5 DPMS wrenches, I would guess for your purposes, it will be fine. The part that always breaks is the pegs for many FF rails. You won't even need that part for installing the DD rail.

If you are looking for a good set of tools for your AR, most everything you will want (not everything though) are standard tools.


I have not broken my DPMS but then again I haven't used the fragile pins. I've only used it on regular barrel nuts, DCM tubes, flash hiders, and collapsible stocks. You and I have had this exact discussion probably 3 times.
pun  [Member]
8/15/2011 5:15:01 AM EST
I have a solid one piece wrench that I got 5 years ago from Bushamster I also have as of the last year started using the GI wrench and tourque wrench combo so I can see the ft lbs im applying...I love both but im more partial for the tourque wrench combo when installing and the solid heavy wrench when loosening a nut.If you use a tourqe wrench GI wrench combo dont forget to reset the wrench when done using the specified tourque.
LA_357SIG  [Team Member]
8/15/2011 5:17:45 AM EST
Originally Posted By Jonnysixguns:
Originally Posted By new-arguy:
I use armorers wrenches a dozen times or more in a week. In truth, the only thing I use an armorers wrench for is barrel nuts and some muzzle devices. If you aren't going to be changing a lot of barrels, a cheap wrench will be fine. Although I have broken no less then 5 DPMS wrenches, I would guess for your purposes, it will be fine. The part that always breaks is the pegs for many FF rails. You won't even need that part for installing the DD rail.

If you are looking for a good set of tools for your AR, most everything you will want (not everything though) are standard tools.


I have not broken my DPMS but then again I haven't used the fragile pins. I've only used it on regular barrel nuts, DCM tubes, flash hiders, and collapsible stocks. You and I have had this exact discussion probably 3 times.


Same here. I've not used the barrel nut pegs yet but the rest of the DPMS tool has been solid. Pretty much worth the $35.
new-arguy  [Site Staff]
8/15/2011 5:35:13 AM EST
The Smith Enterprise wrench is what I have been using for about a year. It's the strongest one I have seen, although I'm sure there are many I have not seen. It cost more than 2 DPMS wrenches but has lasted longer than 4 (for me). I use the pegs to install FF rails often, although, cone to think of it, not nearly as often as I once did now that so many rails have proprietary tools for proprietary barrel nuts.
gunner_71  [Member]
8/15/2011 6:00:52 AM EST
Hammerhead
RaisedByWolves  [Member]
8/15/2011 6:20:01 AM EST

Originally Posted By new-arguy:
I use armorers wrenches a dozen times or more in a week. In truth, the only thing I use an armorers wrench for is barrel nuts and some muzzle devices. If you aren't going to be changing a lot of barrels, a cheap wrench will be fine. Although I have broken no less then 5 DPMS wrenches, I would guess for your purposes, it will be fine. The part that always breaks is the pegs for many FF rails. You won't even need that part for installing the DD rail.

If you are looking for a good set of tools for your AR, most everything you will want (not everything though) are standard tools.


If Im not mistaken (and I may be), I need to remove the DD stock nut, place a bolt cap behind it, then replace/re-torque the nut.

The Bolt cap is for the 6 bolts that bind the FF tube to the nut.

Lemme see if I can dig up a pic.

.

Edit, I has an eppifinnay! I was looking at the Omega X "light" rail mounting.


It mounts like so:







With set screws to tighten it up, Got it.



So can I just remove the M4 foreend and bolt this one on without an armorers wrench?


TheMercenary  [Team Member]
8/15/2011 6:31:57 AM EST
PRI barrel nut wrench

This is the last barrel wrench you will ever need, it is built out of 3/8" steel.



new-arguy  [Site Staff]
8/15/2011 7:12:43 AM EST
Originally Posted By RaisedByWolves:

Originally Posted By new-arguy:
I use armorers wrenches a dozen times or more in a week. In truth, the only thing I use an armorers wrench for is barrel nuts and some muzzle devices. If you aren't going to be changing a lot of barrels, a cheap wrench will be fine. Although I have broken no less then 5 DPMS wrenches, I would guess for your purposes, it will be fine. The part that always breaks is the pegs for many FF rails. You won't even need that part for installing the DD rail.

If you are looking for a good set of tools for your AR, most everything you will want (not everything though) are standard tools.


If Im not mistaken (and I may be), I need to remove the DD stock nut, place a bolt cap behind it, then replace/re-torque the nut.

The Bolt cap is for the 6 bolts that bind the FF tube to the nut.

Lemme see if I can dig up a pic.

.

Edit, I has an eppifinnay! I was looking at the Omega X "light" rail mounting.


It mounts like so:


https://danieldefense.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/9/09304089eb6467b71d7f3a9410912ed9.jpg




With set screws to tighten it up, Got it.



So can I just remove the M4 foreend and bolt this one on without an armorers wrench?




The XV comes with standard handguards, correct? If so, and you want the OnegaX rail (not the Onega you just pictured) you will need use the portion of the wrench with many teeth. The rail you had initially asked about is the OmegaX. The rail you just pictured is the Omega. They are quite different in the way they attach. The OmegaX rail uses a proprietary barrel nut. In fact, very, very recently I have seen it come with a new style nut. No armorers wrench I have seen comes with a tool to tighten it. You will need the wrench DD makes to tighten the OmegaX barrel nut (and a ratchet wrench to attach it to). You will also need a flat head screw driver, a Allen key to tighten the screws on the rail (although I believe DD includes one) a hammer and punch to remove the taper pins from your front sight, and a wrench to remove your flash suppressor (most armorers wrenches have a cut out for this. A vice and receiver block are also required.
bsmith918  [Member]
8/15/2011 7:20:26 AM EST
Originally Posted By TheMercenary:
PRI barrel nut wrench

This is the last barrel wrench you will ever need, it is built out of 3/8" steel.

http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/medium/123/123930.jpg



This is all I use for barrel nuts.
86HMMWV  [Team Member]
8/15/2011 7:23:59 AM EST
Bushmaster. I also have one of these, but it's just for display with my M16A1 clone:

Direct-Drive  [Member]
8/15/2011 7:38:21 AM EST
Originally Posted By gunner_71:
Hammerhead


That's a glorified castle nut wrench (buffer tube nut).
The OP wants a barrel nut wrench.

I've been using the USGI wrench but if I was shopping for one I would look at the Spike's offerings.
Their multi-pin, open-end wrenches (2 models) and their receiver block looks very good if you use both parts and don't try to support solely by the receiver lugs like Panther Claw does.
Spikes AR Tools

The PRI wrench is well built but because it is not open-end it forces FSB removal if your barrel has one installed.
Krylancelo  [Team Member]
8/15/2011 8:26:15 AM EST
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Armorer-AR15-Barrel-Wrench-p/tool%20armorer%20ar15%20wrench.htm

Which one is this?
RaisedByWolves  [Member]
8/15/2011 8:30:39 AM EST

Originally Posted By new-arguy:
Originally Posted By RaisedByWolves:

Originally Posted By new-arguy:
I use armorers wrenches a dozen times or more in a week. In truth, the only thing I use an armorers wrench for is barrel nuts and some muzzle devices. If you aren't going to be changing a lot of barrels, a cheap wrench will be fine. Although I have broken no less then 5 DPMS wrenches, I would guess for your purposes, it will be fine. The part that always breaks is the pegs for many FF rails. You won't even need that part for installing the DD rail.

If you are looking for a good set of tools for your AR, most everything you will want (not everything though) are standard tools.


If Im not mistaken (and I may be), I need to remove the DD stock nut, place a bolt cap behind it, then replace/re-torque the nut.

The Bolt cap is for the 6 bolts that bind the FF tube to the nut.

Lemme see if I can dig up a pic.

.

Edit, I has an eppifinnay! I was looking at the Omega X "light" rail mounting.


It mounts like so:


https://danieldefense.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/9/09304089eb6467b71d7f3a9410912ed9.jpg




With set screws to tighten it up, Got it.



So can I just remove the M4 foreend and bolt this one on without an armorers wrench?




The XV comes with standard handguards, correct? If so, and you want the OnegaX rail (not the Onega you just pictured) you will need use the portion of the wrench with many teeth. The rail you had initially asked about is the OmegaX. The rail you just pictured is the Omega. They are quite different in the way they attach. The OmegaX rail uses a proprietary barrel nut. In fact, very, very recently I have seen it come with a new style nut. No armorers wrench I have seen comes with a tool to tighten it. You will need the wrench DD makes to tighten the OmegaX barrel nut (and a ratchet wrench to attach it to). You will also need a flat head screw driver, a Allen key to tighten the screws on the rail (although I believe DD includes one) a hammer and punch to remove the taper pins from your front sight, and a wrench to remove your flash suppressor (most armorers wrenches have a cut out for this. A vice and receiver block are also required.

Damn, DD needs to come up with some new product names.


But then again Im not too well versed in their offerings.

The one I bought (From the EE) was listed as DD Omega X 12.0 fsp.

How does this unit mount?

Will it do away with the black cone shaped thing between the upper receiver and the standard hand guard?


gunner_71  [Member]
8/15/2011 8:35:52 AM EST
Originally Posted By Direct-Drive:
Originally Posted By gunner_71:
Hammerhead


That's a glorified castle nut wrench (buffer tube nut).
The OP wants a barrel nut wrench.

I've been using the USGI wrench but if I was shopping for one I would look at the Spike's offerings.
Their multi-pin, open-end wrenches (2 models) and their receiver block looks very good if you use both parts and don't try to support solely by the receiver lugs like Panther Claw does.
Spikes AR Tools

The PRI wrench is well built but because it is not open-end it forces FSB removal if your barrel has one installed.


yeah i know what it is, but he said "but Id also like something that will cover most AR parts in a single package."
skullworks  [Member]
8/15/2011 8:40:54 AM EST
The one problem I ran into with the Smith Enterprise Armorers Wrench was that the finish was "kinda" thick in the cut-out for the 1/4" drive on the torque wrench. I had to take a file to it to make it square. Easy fix, but still annoying.
98Z5V  [Member]
8/15/2011 8:42:55 AM EST
GunTech USA armorers wrench. Much better than other I've used in the past:

http://guntecusa.com/ar-15/tools/
blackhawk400  [Team Member]
8/15/2011 8:56:32 AM EST
Originally Posted By TheMercenary:
PRI barrel nut wrench

This is the last barrel wrench you will ever need, it is built out of 3/8" steel.

http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/medium/123/123930.jpg



anyone know, does this fit dpms .936 bull barrels?
Direct-Drive  [Member]
8/15/2011 10:04:58 AM EST
Originally Posted By gunner_71:
Originally Posted By Direct-Drive:
Originally Posted By gunner_71:
Hammerhead


That's a glorified castle nut wrench (buffer tube nut).
The OP wants a barrel nut wrench.

I've been using the USGI wrench but if I was shopping for one I would look at the Spike's offerings.
Their multi-pin, open-end wrenches (2 models) and their receiver block looks very good if you use both parts and don't try to support solely by the receiver lugs like Panther Claw does.
Spikes AR Tools

The PRI wrench is well built but because it is not open-end it forces FSB removal if your barrel has one installed.


yeah i know what it is, but he said "but Id also like something that will cover most AR parts in a single package."


I guess I was trying to say "gimmicky" in a nice way
If it just had barrel nut capability........
103  [Team Member]
8/15/2011 10:09:31 AM EST
Originally Posted By 98Z5V:
GunTech USA armorers wrench. Much better than other I've used in the past:

http://guntecusa.com/ar-15/tools/


This tool breaks very easily.
Krylancelo  [Team Member]
8/15/2011 10:10:39 AM EST

Originally Posted By 103:
Originally Posted By 98Z5V:
GunTech USA armorers wrench. Much better than other I've used in the past:

http://guntecusa.com/ar-15/tools/


This tool breaks very easily.

Where does it end up breaking? That looks similar to the one I have.
103  [Team Member]
8/15/2011 10:12:30 AM EST
Originally Posted By Krylancelo:

Originally Posted By 103:
Originally Posted By 98Z5V:
GunTech USA armorers wrench. Much better than other I've used in the past:

http://guntecusa.com/ar-15/tools/


This tool breaks very easily.

Where does it end up breaking? That looks similar to the one I have.


At the narrowest part where the castle nut tool section is. I broke my roommate's tool on a gun that wasn't even in a vice...
Krylancelo  [Team Member]
8/15/2011 10:14:53 AM EST
Hmmm. I'll be careful with mine. I've done about 3-4 castle nuts and I generally torque them down pretty hard but never had any problems with the wrench. I may have gotten lucky too. Who knows.
gunner_71  [Member]
8/15/2011 10:27:55 AM EST
Originally Posted By Direct-Drive:
Originally Posted By gunner_71:
Originally Posted By Direct-Drive:
Originally Posted By gunner_71:
Hammerhead


That's a glorified castle nut wrench (buffer tube nut).
The OP wants a barrel nut wrench.

I've been using the USGI wrench but if I was shopping for one I would look at the Spike's offerings.
Their multi-pin, open-end wrenches (2 models) and their receiver block looks very good if you use both parts and don't try to support solely by the receiver lugs like Panther Claw does.
Spikes AR Tools

The PRI wrench is well built but because it is not open-end it forces FSB removal if your barrel has one installed.


yeah i know what it is, but he said "but Id also like something that will cover most AR parts in a single package."


I guess I was trying to say "gimmicky" in a nice way
If it just had barrel nut capability........


really IMO you should have a dedicated barrel nut tool anyway.
new-arguy  [Site Staff]
8/15/2011 12:04:11 PM EST
Originally Posted By RaisedByWolves:

Originally Posted By new-arguy:
Originally Posted By RaisedByWolves:

Originally Posted By new-arguy:
I use armorers wrenches a dozen times or more in a week. In truth, the only thing I use an armorers wrench for is barrel nuts and some muzzle devices. If you aren't going to be changing a lot of barrels, a cheap wrench will be fine. Although I have broken no less then 5 DPMS wrenches, I would guess for your purposes, it will be fine. The part that always breaks is the pegs for many FF rails. You won't even need that part for installing the DD rail.

If you are looking for a good set of tools for your AR, most everything you will want (not everything though) are standard tools.


If I'm not mistaken (and I may be), I need to remove the DD stock nut, place a bolt cap behind it, then replace/re-torque the nut.

The Bolt cap is for the 6 bolts that bind the FF tube to the nut.

Lemme see if I can dig up a pic.

.

Edit, I has an eppifinnay! I was looking at the Omega X "light" rail mounting.


It mounts like so:


https://danieldefense.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/9/09304089eb6467b71d7f3a9410912ed9.jpg




With set screws to tighten it up, Got it.



So can I just remove the M4 foreend and bolt this one on without an armorers wrench?




The XV comes with standard hand guards, correct? If so, and you want the OnegaX rail (not the Onega you just pictured) you will need use the portion of the wrench with many teeth. The rail you had initially asked about is the OmegaX. The rail you just pictured is the Omega. They are quite different in the way they attach. The OmegaX rail uses a proprietary barrel nut. In fact, very, very recently I have seen it come with a new style nut. No armorers wrench I have seen comes with a tool to tighten it. You will need the wrench DD makes to tighten the OmegaX barrel nut (and a ratchet wrench to attach it to). You will also need a flat head screw driver, a Allen key to tighten the screws on the rail (although I believe DD includes one) a hammer and punch to remove the taper pins from your front sight, and a wrench to remove your flash suppressor (most armorers wrenches have a cut out for this. A vice and receiver block are also required.

Damn, DD needs to come up with some new product names.


But then again I'm not too well versed in their offerings.

The one I bought (From the EE) was listed as DD Omega X 12.0 fsp.

How does this unit mount?

Will it do away with the black cone shaped thing between the upper receiver and the standard hand guard?




I was previously typing from my phone in the waiting room of the car place. Wow, sorry for so many typos. The OmegaX12.0 FSP is a great rail, its light weight and will go great on the gun you have. Step by step you will have to:

1: remove your standard hand guards (no tools necessary)

2: punch out the taper pins in your front sight, it is important you push them from the bolt catch side of your upper out to the ejection port side of your upper (left to right). They will not come out the other way. (you need a standard hammer and punch, a taper pin starter is not required but can be VERY helpful.

3: put your upper in a receiver block, put your receiver block in a vice. Remove your muzzle device and front sight (there is no need to remove the gas tube from the front sight/gas block).

4: remove the stock delta ring assembly using any one of the barrel nut tools described in this thread. They will all work

5: take the barrel nut that will come with your rail and slide it over the barrel on to the threads of your upper receiver. There will probably already be grease on the threads, it should be sufficient to use it without needing to reapply more. (if I am mistaken, someone please correct me). Tighten it as far as you can to be hand tight.

6: using the DD OmegaX barrel nut tool attached to a wrench, tighten then loosen the nut 3 times to about 30-35 ft pounds (I have heard some people say you don't have to do this three times, I have heard some people say you must. I do it to err on the side of safety).

7: finally, torque the barrel nut on between 35-80 ft lbs, I know, that's a big difference between min and max, but the OmegaX does not have to be timed like many many other barrel nuts. I usually like to try and tighten to the higher end if possible.

8: put your front sight/gasblock/gas tube through the area of the top rail of the OmegaX and slide your front sight onto the barrel, make sure the gas tube goes through the hole in the upper. You will see how the rear of the rail fits in the space between the upper and the barrel nut you just installed. leave it loose for the moment. Reinstall your muzzle device while it is still in the vice. remember, there is a wide end and a narrow end to the crush washer that is likely on your upper right now. The narrow end goes against the barrel, the muzzle device goes against wide end.

9: take the upper out of the vice and install the lower rail, fitting it in that same gap between the upper and the barrel nut, then install the flat head screws to attach the upper and lower rail.

10: to align the top rail with your upper receiver, I like to take and old removable carry handle and put it between the upper and the rail. I have seen people use old TA51 ACOG mounts and other things, but honestly, there is no mention of using these things in the directions, which leads me to believe you can just eyeball it. Still, I like using something to help in the alignment. At this point, take the small allen key that will come with your rail and tighten the small screws towards the read of the rail. I do not recall, offhand, if there is an order DD suggests they be tightened. If they do (and I think they do) it will say so in the directions. You do not have to over-tighten these small screws. Make them tight enough to be snug, that's it.

You should be done at this point. Have fun. Go build another gun so you can reuse any of the tools you may have had to purchase. PS, the tools I linked you to are just to give you an idea of what you might need or could use. I'm not suggesting any one specific brand or model.
TheMercenary  [Team Member]
8/15/2011 1:56:21 PM EST
I'm just going to throw this in there, if you don't plan on working on any A2 upper recievers you DO NOT need a fancy $40 reciever block.

Just go to walmart and buy a $2 cutting board, and cut two slats off of it to pad your vice with and turn the upper on its side.



Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Quinncy81  [Member]
8/15/2011 6:16:16 PM EST
Originally Posted By TheMercenary:
I'm just going to throw this in there, if you don't plan on working on any A2 upper recievers you DO NOT need a fancy $40 reciever block.

Just go to walmart and buy a $2 cutting board, and cut two slats of of it to pad your vice with and turn the upper on its side.



Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile


Brilliant!!!
RaisedByWolves  [Member]
8/16/2011 2:11:16 AM EST
Snipped to clean things up a bit.
Originally Posted By new-arguy:

I was previously typing from my phone in the waiting room of the car place. Wow, sorry for so many typos. The OmegaX12.0 FSP is a great rail, its light weight and will go great on the gun you have. Step by step you will have to:

1: remove your standard hand guards (no tools necessary)

2: punch out the taper pins in your front sight, it is important you push them from the bolt catch side of your upper out to the ejection port side of your upper (left to right). They will not come out the other way. (you need a standard hammer and punch, a taper pin starter is not required but can be VERY helpful.

3: put your upper in a receiver block, put your receiver block in a vice. Remove your muzzle device and front sight (there is no need to remove the gas tube from the front sight/gas block).

4: remove the stock delta ring assembly using any one of the barrel nut tools described in this thread. They will all work

5: take the barrel nut that will come with your rail and slide it over the barrel on to the threads of your upper receiver. There will probably already be grease on the threads, it should be sufficient to use it without needing to reapply more. (if I am mistaken, someone please correct me). Tighten it as far as you can to be hand tight.

6: using the DD OmegaX barrel nut tool attached to a wrench, tighten then loosen the nut 3 times to about 30-35 ft pounds (I have heard some people say you don't have to do this three times, I have heard some people say you must. I do it to err on the side of safety).

7: finally, torque the barrel nut on between 35-80 ft lbs, I know, that's a big difference between min and max, but the OmegaX does not have to be timed like many many other barrel nuts. I usually like to try and tighten to the higher end if possible.

8: put your front sight/gasblock/gas tube through the area of the top rail of the OmegaX and slide your front sight onto the barrel, make sure the gas tube goes through the hole in the upper. You will see how the rear of the rail fits in the space between the upper and the barrel nut you just installed. leave it loose for the moment. Reinstall your muzzle device while it is still in the vice. remember, there is a wide end and a narrow end to the crush washer that is likely on your upper right now. The narrow end goes against the barrel, the muzzle device goes against wide end.

9: take the upper out of the vice and install the lower rail, fitting it in that same gap between the upper and the barrel nut, then install the flat head screws to attach the upper and lower rail.

10: to align the top rail with your upper receiver, I like to take and old removable carry handle and put it between the upper and the rail. I have seen people use old TA51 ACOG mounts and other things, but honestly, there is no mention of using these things in the directions, which leads me to believe you can just eyeball it. Still, I like using something to help in the alignment. At this point, take the small allen key that will come with your rail and tighten the small screws towards the read of the rail. I do not recall, offhand, if there is an order DD suggests they be tightened. If they do (and I think they do) it will say so in the directions. You do not have to over-tighten these small screws. Make them tight enough to be snug, that's it.

You should be done at this point. Have fun. Go build another gun so you can reuse any of the tools you may have had to purchase. PS, the tools I linked you to are just to give you an idea of what you might need or could use. I'm not suggesting any one specific brand or model.

Thank you, just what I was lookin for.


I could easily figure things out once I had all the parts in hand and even make the DD wrench (Toolmaker). But I want to order all the required wrenches today so I can take this to the range this weekend and try it out when sighting in my Benchrest gun.

Many thanks.


BTW, Ill probably carve up some Nylon to hold the upper.

Thanks for the suggestion T-Merc.
new-arguy  [Site Staff]
8/16/2011 2:29:22 AM EST
You probably would have caught this, but I realize now that I did not mention reinstalling the taper pins in the front sight/gas block. That can be done at the very end, there are cut outs in the rail specifically for this task. Remember, the pins will only fit in one way. Give them a c few hard smacks with a large punch and hammer until they are fully seated.
warpig8654  [Team Member]
8/16/2011 3:28:28 AM EST
I really like the Guntec wrench.
tjsjr  [Member]
8/16/2011 5:54:59 AM EST
Originally Posted By TheMercenary:
I'm just going to throw this in there, if you don't plan on working on any A2 upper recievers you DO NOT need a fancy $40 reciever block.

Just go to walmart and buy a $2 cutting board, and cut two slats off of it to pad your vice with and turn the upper on its side.



Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile


I read this solution awhile back and thought "damn, wish I would have know that was an OK solution". I ended up paying the gunsmith 25 to change out my factory nut for the troy nut needed for the trx-e. I couldnt get the barrel tight enough in a vise to break the cmmg nut loose. Even tried, wood, rubber, and bare metal. Buying a vise block for a one time use seemed like a waste. In the end I came out cheaper, but it could have been even cheaper and quicker had I known this trick!
RaisedByWolves  [Member]
8/19/2011 7:23:42 AM EST
And.........





Its a Boy!!!







Considering this was my first time banging out the FSB pins this was cake.


Not nearly as hard as knocking out AK pins. The hardest part was screwing in the grub screws that hold the rail to the nut. 1/8 turn at a time X 4 screws sucked.

I used a 20moa scope riser to align the rail with the upper and it came out perfect.


I think 80lbs was a bit much though as I deformed one of the ears on the DD wrench a lil bit.



Cant wait to Choot it!


.
new-arguy  [Site Staff]
8/20/2011 5:18:46 AM EST
Awesome, for the most part, AR's are very easy. I know what you mean about the "grub" screws. DD Lite rails are worse. There are 6 screws that have to go all the way in.

Get out and shoot that gun, the Omega X is a great rail, I expect you're going to love it.
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